The R&R Big Adventure

Stressful doing nothing

Despite us being the only guests in the hotel, the staff had lit old fashioned kerosene lanterns to guide us along the dark paths from our lodge to the restaurant that evening. A lovely touch.

The next morning we were up at dawn to go out on a boat to spot bottlenose dolphins which frequent the waters off Kizimikaze. The waters were calm until we left the protection of the reef at the tip of the island, when it got decidedly choppy. However once we joined around twenty other small boats that were doing the same thing, and we started spotted dolphins, I soon forgot about the waves. Some reviews say it is cruel for boats to be chasing after the dolphins: I think that given how intelligent dolphins are, it is actually them teasing us. They would appear for a few seconds above the waves, diving in and out of the water in unison, before vanishing again – only to appear some distance away from where the boats would then gather. Some of the tourists in the other boats had snorkeling equipment on – ready to ‘swim with the dolphins’ – except, of course, by the time they had dived in, the dolphins were already some distance off, and the snorkelers had to sheepishly return to their boats. One boat of alpha males, all wearing red swimming shorts, and eager to dive at the first dolphin sighting, looked like a Baywatch fan club.

We got some good dolphin sightings, and returned to shore after a couple of hours at sea. Except the boat pilot dropped us by the reef which was 50m or so from the shore. To wade to shore, and get to our lodge, we had to pass through a field of sea urchins, which was interspersed with a jagged rock floor. And we weren’t wearing reef shoes. It was a very stressful 20mins navigating the sea floor to avoid cutting our feet on the rocks, or stand on a sea urchin. It wasn’t until afterwards we read that urchins actually let out a venom if stepped on ‘which isn’t usually fatal’ (!)

We left the hotel late morning to get to our penultimate stop of the trip – a hotel on the east side of Zanzibar (the main island is called Unguja) where we would be a staying a whole seven days. Up until now our longest stop in one place was four days; the usual length of stay being two to three days. There is a cartel on taxi pricing in Zanzibar (like any island, to be fair) but with prices not far off what you would pay in the UK. The Tanzanian government is also definitely rinsing tourists on taxes and fees – more so than most countries we have been to. High tourist visa fees; compulsory Government travel insurance fees for Zanzibar (on top of your ordinary travel insurance); high game reserve fees; and a $10 per night tourist tax per couple for hotels (when most countries /cities may charge a few £ per night). I would have more sympathy if I could see evidence of investment in schools, hospitals or transport on our travels as a result – but sadly not.

The hotel is a small place with only seven villas and no children. Peace and tranquility reign: only one monkey sighting so far. We can access the sister resorts next door for other restaurants, and facilities like the gym, but can retreat here for some peace and quiet. R and I went to the gym for the first time in ages yesterday – we definitely need to get back into a routine after so much food and so little exercise the last few weeks.

I started thinking about potential excursions: we couldn’t sit still for that many days, surely. However, looking down the list of things to do (dolphins – done; Stone Town – done; spice farm (we’ve done a pepper plantation in Cambodia, so essentially done) I think I may have to force myself to relax.

I walked up the powder white beach yesterday afternoon, passing the sister resorts, but then quickly came across both abandoned decaying resorts (thatched sun umbrellas lying on their side, slowly being swallowed by the sea and sand) or half built resorts (during COVID?) that had not been finished. Like Cambodia and Fiji, rubbish unfortunately littered some of the beach further up the coast. It was a pity that those resorts couldn’t survive in such a beautiful setting.

We are the only gay couple here (bearing in mind it is illegal to be gay in both Kenya and Tanzania) but it is an upmarket resort, so it is not an issue. If housekeeping leave a note telling us we are both sinners in the Lord’s eyes, and doomed for all eternity, I will let you know. Today is Valentine’s Day – no PDA from us – and we were not supposed to be drinking much today (it is an all-inclusive place, so hard not to). They served us mimosas for breakfast, and sparkling local rosé at lunch (we were polite and drank it); we supplemented that with an espresso martini each to finish. Best laid plans and all that.

Other couples have retreated to their villas after lunch. Robert is snoozing in our cabana, and I am typing. Who says romance is dead 😊.