The R&R Big Adventure

A Close Shave

In the confusion of Tuesday’s events I said it was Day 79; it was actually day 78. Very sadly, at least 14 people are reported dead from the major earthquake that struck Vanuatu on Tuesday; more than 200 are injured: a seven day state of emergency has been declared; and the airport will be closed due to structural damage for several days. The hotel we were due to be staying in when we arrived was severely damaged, according to their Facebook update. If our flight had been a morning flight… The sad irony is that the places that we have seen so far on this trip that have had the most spectacular scenery – the Andes, New Zealand, the Pacific islands – have come about due to tectonic activity. That same force of nature has caused so many deaths and destruction this week.

Fiji Airways staff were very good handling the situation, although R and I did note that the first thing the airport ground staff did when we landed back at Nadi airport, after our flight returned, was to grab our duty free off us. Important matters first. Tuesday afternoon was a sombre affair – not helped by being in another dour airport hotel. The room had the most amazingly up-to-date 65″ TV in it, but a bath tub that was so scratched, dented, and discoloured it looked like it should have had crime scene tape around it. We spent the rest of Tuesday trying to find availability in hotels in Fiji, now that we weren’t going anywhere. Why do all the major incidents we have incurred when travelling (air traffic control failure, CrowdStrike, and now this) happen in peak season, when any decent rooms are scarce and expensive. We decided to tilt this to our advantage: on Monday in Port Denarau we talked about how it would have been nice to visit some of the smaller islands off Viti Levu (Fiji main island), but that our itinerary didn’t allow it. We eventually found a resort on Malolo island (that had come recommended) that wasn’t silly money, and which we could justify given we would no longer be paying for car hire, and our flights should (theoretically) be refunded. It was adults-only (we have had our fair share of hyperactive kids by the pool and parents who are oblivious to it all) and a small resort, so took the plunge, and booked it for the next day.

Yesterday morning there was still no news from Fiji Airways about what was going on with our flights (we just wanted them to officially cancel them, which they did later that day, so we could get the refund). After going to the airport to the Fiji Airways office to try and sort this, we headed back again to the port to await our catamaran to Malolo island. The boat makes a series of stops en-route to other resort islands, day-tripper islands, and even one where apparently they film the American ‘Survivor’ reality show series. I have never watched it, but I am sure they don’t included footage of a thrice daily catamaran, filled with tourists, in their final edit. Some of the islands really were Robinson Crusoe-esque: a small patch of sand with palm trees, albeit some also with beach volleyball nets, a bar and restaurant. The boat was playing island-disco remixes of Christmas songs and carols. Frosty The Snowman didn’t seem quite the right accompaniment to the journey we were taking.

Only R and I got off the catamaran to go to our resort, and some of the staff at the hotel welcomed us with a traditional Fijian welcome song when we disembarked our tender. The resort is very quiet, not full, with a picture perfect view across still waters to another small island (which the locals call Google Island, as Larry Page brought it, and several other islands apparently, during COVID). We spent the rest of yesterday doing not very much at all. We have been so used to walking, hiking, driving and generally exploring places we have been to, it is going to be a big behaviour shift for us to relax. The resort encourages a digital detox, so only the common areas have WiFi, and that can be temperamental. I was involved in a long and frustrating virtual chat with hotels.com yesterday afternoon to try and explain to them that, as Vanuatu airport was closed, and the hotel we were supposed to be staying in had incurred significant damage, and therefore we couldn’t stay there even if we could get to Vanuatu, that we shouldn’t be charged. ‘Candice’ kept referring back to official booking policy. Perhaps if some of these companies sent their staff on ‘common sense awareness’ training modules they might surprise themselves at how many fewer irate customers they have. Anyway, the WiFi kept dropping and I had to move to nearer the corner of the swimming pool where a couple were doing a convincing impression of trying for a baby in the water. I thought I needed a sign saying ‘I am honestly not watching, I just need WiFi’. Last night the very friendly staff put on a traditional Fijian song and dance performance, that ended with the lighting of the Christmas Tree by the beach (just like any other Dec 18th for us, really).

No WiFi also meant no reaching for the phone first thing in the morning and checking for updates. R usually takes longer than me to wake up properly in the morning but unsurprisingly today he was keen to get to breakfast – and to a signal. We had a strenuous morning of feeding fish off the jetty, followed by kayaking around the bay of the hotel. We might go kayaking past Google Island tomorrow, and on to Rock Island (which sounds like something out of Scooby Doo). Or maybe do some snorkeling. Decisions, decisions.