The R&R Big Adventure

Purple Miracles

I did indeed tempt fate yesterday by saying travel up until now had been uneventful. Soon after I boarded the plane to Lima, I was asked to leave the plane by one of the ground crew, as they thought I had a cigarette lighter in my checked bag. I thought this was a mistake, and Robert thought it might have been his, but I obviously obliged. I was led to the behind-the-scenes baggage area where I could see police with sniffer dogs checking all the bags before they were loaded onto the planes. Sure enough, it was R’s bag they brought out. By this time there were four police in the area where I had been asked to stand, two with dogs, one of the dogs pulling on its lead. I was trying to explain to them that we needed Robert to go through the bag and find the lighter, but the ground staff person had clearly chewed at least two wasps before her shift, and wasn’t listening. The police looked on impassively. I tried to call Robert, who wasn’t picking up (I later remembered he had run out of mobile data earlier in the day). I was trying to open the lock on the case and even though I knew the combination, it didn’t work: possibly due to a combination of the presence of the police, stern officials, and a clock in front of me which showed that my flight was due to leave in 15 minutes. If I couldn’t get the case open they would not have hesitated to off-load me. I eventually got the padlock open, but then had to think where on earth he would keep a lighter (clock in front of me still ticking). I was rummaging through all his clothes, found his packet of cigarettes (it wasn’t in there) and then suddenly thought: wash bag. There it was, inside the bag. Who knew I could be so pleased to see a purple cigarette lighter. The officials and police still looked on impassively. Lighter removed, they allowed me to get back on the plane. I raced back to the airbridge and got on board – the aircraft door shut quickly behind me. I had become that person that holds up a flight by boarding late. At least I wasn’t stranded at Cartagena airport.

This morning we decided to explore the historical centre of Lima. We happened to be there at the same time as ‘The Lord of The Miracles’ festival in Lima (apparently started after the disastrous 1655 earthquake, to save Lima from another one), and October is also Mes Morado (‘Purple Month’). As we got closer to the main square we could see fireworks going off (at 11am?), people dressed in purple, and hawkers selling all kinds of purple rosary beads and prayer cards. Buildings around the Plaza Mayor were draped in purple and white, purple and white balloons were being let off, and large purple and white floral displays were being paraded around the square. Wimbledon would be envious of this branding. In front of Lima cathedral, there were huge choirs singing, brass bands playing, religious processions, and the Archbishop of Lima (who, I am reliably informed by my accompanying theologian, is soon to be made a Cardinal) giving a sermon to the faithful who packed the square – quite a spectacle. I almost lost Robert in the throng, but due to a combination of the average Peruvian being 5′ 6″, and R wearing an orange polo shirt, quickly found him again.

We decided to get away from the crowds and stopped at a traditional restaurant that had a view of the surrounding hills, and the many multi-coloured houses that covered its slopes. I had my first Pisco sour, which was surprisingly drinkable. The presence of the egg white though couldn’t tempt R to try it as well.

Tomorrow we are heading to the Miraflores district and the coast – and hopefully a sighting of a statue of Peru’s most famous bear.